Chop suey is not a traditional Chinese dish - it's a Chinese-American creation adapted from tsap seui, a Guangdong dish of mixed leftovers that immigrants brought to America in the 1880s.
Chop Suey Isn't From China—It's Chinese-American
If you've ever ordered chop suey thinking you were getting an authentic taste of China, you've been charmingly deceived. This stir-fried medley of vegetables and meat isn't a traditional Chinese dish at all—it's as Chinese-American as fortune cookies.
The Real Origin Story
Chop suey traces back to tsap seui (杂碎), which literally means "miscellaneous leftovers" in Cantonese. This humble dish was common in Taishan, a region in China's Guangdong province that sent waves of immigrants to America during the Gold Rush and railroad-building era of the 1880s.
When these workers arrived in California and across the American West, they brought their food traditions with them. Tsap seui was essentially whatever you had on hand—vegetable scraps, meat cuttings, odds and ends—tossed together in a wok. Practical, filling, and infinitely adaptable.
How It Became "American"
Here's where it gets interesting: Chinese restaurant owners noticed that Americans loved this dish. So they leaned into it hard. They adapted the recipe to suit American tastes, made it more consistent, and marketed it as exotic Chinese cuisine. Americans ate it up—literally—assuming it must be China's national dish since every Chinese restaurant served it.
It became so popular that by the early 1900s, chop suey houses dominated American cities. The dish appeared on menus from New York to San Francisco, and non-Chinese Americans genuinely believed they were experiencing authentic Chinese food.
The Li Hongzhang Myth
You've probably heard the romantic tale: Chinese diplomat Li Hongzhang visited America in 1896, and his chef invented chop suey on the spot to please both Chinese and American palates. Some versions claim it happened at a banquet; others say Li showed up at a restaurant after hours and the chef threw together leftovers.
Complete fiction. Scholar Renqiu Yu debunked this thoroughly—Li brought three personal chefs and never ate at local restaurants. The Washington Post even admitted they falsely reported Li eating chop suey because it was the only Chinese dish American readers would recognize. Savvy restaurant owners simply exploited the publicity around his visit to boost sales.
A Dish of Contradictions
Chop suey occupies a fascinating cultural space:
- Chinese immigrants don't consider it authentically Chinese
- Americans assumed it was China's signature dish
- It's based on a real Guangdong dish but transformed beyond recognition
- Its origin stories are "culinary mythology" according to food historians
Today, chop suey has largely fallen out of fashion, eclipsed by dishes like General Tso's chicken and orange chicken (also Chinese-American inventions, by the way). But it remains a testament to immigrant ingenuity—taking something familiar, adapting it to a new culture, and creating something entirely new in the process.
So next time someone claims chop suey is authentic Chinese cuisine, you can politely correct them: it's authentic Chinese-American cuisine. And that's a distinction worth celebrating.
