By 1902, poachers had cut Yellowstone's wild bison down to about two dozen animals. They hid in Pelican Valley, the last free herd left in the country. Today the park counts nearly 5,300 bison. Most summer mornings in Hayden Valley, the herd walks straight down the centerline. Traffic stops in both directions. Rangers still give the same order: stay in the car, be patient, and never honk.